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Check these out

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Flyoverpeople.net is PR native Cheryl Unruh's chronicle of life in Kansas. She often describes Pawnee Rock and what it has meant to her.

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Explore Kansas encourages Kansans to hit the road -- all the roads -- and enjoy the state. Marci Penner, a guidebook writer from Inman, is the driving force of this site.

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The Santa Fe Trail Research Site, produced by Larry and Carolyn Mix of St. John, has hundreds of pages dedicated to the trail that runs through Pawnee Rock

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Peg Britton mowed Kansas. Try to keep up with her as she keeps Ellsworth, and the rest of Kansas, on an even keel. KansasPrairie.net

Do you have an entertaining or useful blog or personal website? If you'd like to see it listed here, send the URL to leon@pawneerock.org.

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Too Long in the Wind

Warning: The following contains opinions and ideas. Some memories may be accurate. -- Leon Unruh. Send comments to Leon

• • •

July 2009

More of Too Long in the Wind

 

• • •
 

In honor of Mrs. Fry

[July 31]   The university department where I work had a celebration last night for a batch of graduate students who were about to fulfill their requirements for master's degrees. They are all teachers from rural Alaska, and they'll soon have diplomas attesting to their advanced skills in Native languages.

As Alaskans do, we had a potluck meal. Being a Kansas boy, I brought watermelon and put it on the table with the garden salad, the macaroni salad, the potato salad, and the white bread and tomato-carrot-celery-broccoli platters with which we are all comfortable.

These foods are the ones our families know. We inhale them at family dinners, and we see them after funerals and at 4-H picnics. All that was missing last night was carrot 'n' orange Jell-O salad.

Virginia Fry, fourth-grade teacher in Pawnee Rock.A number of readers will remember Virginia Fry. She taught fourth grade when I was in school, with a Bible in one hand and the terrible swift sword of teacherly righteousness in the other. Many of us were afraid of her, at least when the school year started. But Mrs. Fry opened up the world to us.

Among her classes was world geography, and she had the inspiration to bring us foods from the distant reaches of the globe. There was coconut milk, fresh from the coconut -- in itself an oddity. There was canned squid from Japan, bathing in its inky juice. Not everyone liked the food, but I think most of us took a bite (when I bit, the little suckers popped off the arm and across my mouth; it's an indelible memory). Frankly, not one of us might have ever expected to eat squid again because we were in Kansas.

I'm not in Kansas anymore. The table last night was laid out with food for two hundred folks from around Alaska, so there was a lot to choose from and not all of it had been brought by white-bread city people. The part beyond the fruit-and-vegetable section was loaded with proteins and starches common in the Bush:

Heavily smoked strips of salmon. Broiled salmon covered with black pepper. Baked salmon. Moose stew with tomatoes. Caribou stew with rice.

Tucked in at the back of the table was another bowl of food that had come from hundreds of miles away, a gift from unknown friends along the Arctic coast. The meat was cut into shapes resembling short french fries. A half-inch of black flesh was at one end, and the other inch or so was pink.

Mrs. Fry would be proud of me. I spooned a couple of pieces onto my plate and, when no one was watching, I ate my first pieces of muktuk -- whale meat. (Photo of muktuk at the bottom of this page)

It was chewy, and it didn't have a strong flavor. It's a delicacy and a staple on the northern coast, but if you're not from there and you want some you have to know somebody who knows somebody who's generous. In 16 years in Anchorage, I didn't know that person. After 6 weeks in Fairbanks, in the Kansas-like middle of the state, I know somebody.

And I have Mrs. Fry to thank for encouraging me to grab the chance when I had it. Who knows when life will next put squid -- or whale -- on my plate?

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It was news in 1937

An advertisement in the May 28, 1937, Pawnee Rock Herald revealed the playbill at the State Theater in Larned. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

An advertisement in the May 28, 1937, Pawnee Rock Herald described the playbill at the State Theater in Larned.

[July 30]   A year's subscription to the Pawnee Rock Herald in 1937 cost $1.50, and subscribers got a fresh paper every Thursday.

There was lots of local -- extremely local and sometimes personal -- news. Here's a bit of what they read on May 28:

Local News

Mrs. P. Bloom, who has been suffering from leakage of the heart for several weeks, entered the Great Bend hospital for treatment Sunday. Her condition remains critical.

STRAYED -- A yellow Persian Cat. Answers to name of Lindy. Finder call Mrs. H.M. Schmitt, Pawnee Rock.

Friends will be glad to learn that Mrs. Ray Harper of Macksville, who has been suffering with a severe case of inflamatory rheumatism, has improved a great deal during the past week.

Mr. and Mrs. George Vassar and Marlyn drove to Emporia, Saturday. Vera, who has been attending college there the past year, returned home with them.

Don Kennison who has been employed by the Western Transit Co., and has been in Great Bend for a couple of years, resigned last week and has gone to Russell where he is employed in the offices of the Skelly Oil Co.

Mr. and Mrs. Pete Deckert entertained with a dinner Sunday at which the following guests were present: Mr. and Mrs. Otho Deckert and children of Larned, Lyndon Deckert of Burdette, Mr. and Mrs. Henry Jantz and daughter Vi--, Mr. and Mrs. Abe Schultz and family, Mr. and Mrs. P.C. Schultz and family, Mrs. Sam J. Schmidt and sons, Mr. and Mrs. Frank Unruh and daughters, Mr. and Mrs. John Mull and sons, and Mr. and Mrs. Ed Deckert and sons.

Mrs. and Mrs. Durward Cooper and daughter of Larned moved in with O.G. Cooper, Tuesday. Mr. Cooper will teach in Larned again next year and plans on attending summer school at Boulder, Colo., this summer.

Ads for a doctor in Pawnee Rock and a car repair shop in Great Bend, in the Pawnee Rock Herald, 1937. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh. Bobby Smith, small son of Mr. and Mrs. Chester Smith, of Dundee, stubbed his toe against a plow shear last week and received a cut which seemed to heal. Tuesday it caused him quite a bit of pain and when taken to a doctor it was found advisable to take him to the hospital for treatment. Bobby is getting along all right.

Wayne Houdyshell was a visitor in Hutchinson, Sunday.

Miss Bernice Franklin who underwent an appendicitis operation last week at the St. Rose hospital, is reported to be recovering nicely.

Mr. and Mrs. Sam P. Hill of Great Bend were in town monday attending the Mrs. Logan funeral rites, and visiting friends.

Charley Lawhorn of Wichita, was here Monday to attend the funeral services of Mrs. D.R. Logan. Mr. Lawhorn formerly lived in Pawnee Rock.

Mr. Fred Fry and son and Gwendolyn Smith of Hutchinson attended commencement exercises at the local high school Monday.

Mrs L.L. Gilbert returned to her home in Larned, Wednesday, after convalescing from a recent operation at the home of her folks, Mr. and [Mrs.] T.P. Nichols.

Mrs. Albert Welch entertained the Happy Harmony Club at her home Tuesday afternoon. One of the most interesting features of the afternoon was a talk by Mrs. Emerson Haynes, who recently returned from the Philippines. Mrs. Haynes told the ladies her impressions of life in the Islands and her talk was greatly enjoyed. The members who attended the meeting were Mrs. Galen Unruh, Mrs. Ed Schultz, Mrs. Frank Wedel, Mrs. Lamont Smith, Mrs. Roger Unruh, and Mrs. Irene Welch. Guests were Mrs. Emerson Haynes, Mrs. Chester Siebert, Mrs. Elmert Jantz, Mrs. Adolph Unruh, and Mrs. Joe Unruh. Lovely refreshments were served by the hostess, late in the afternoon.

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Hello, Cathleen Unruh-Hall

[July 29]   Cathleen Unruh-Hall of Oklahoma is looking for information about her family, which arrived in the Pawnee Rock area in 1885.

Maybe you can help her.

She is the great-granddaughter of Russian immigrants Cornelius and Lena (Base) Schmidt of Dundee and the granddaughter of Laura June, who married Peter Unruh and moved to Greensburg.

Maybe a description of the Schmidts' home will ring a bell:

According to Cornelius' obituary in the Pawnee Rock Herald, Cathleen wrote: he "passed his declining years in ease and comfort, in a home conceded by all to be the finest in the village."

Cathleen's contact information is in the Friends of Pawnee Rock. She plans to visit Pawnee Rock for the first time in the coming year.

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Recalling City Drug Store

[July 28]   Ruth (Maupin) Betsworth-Breeding, our kind friend who lives in western Kansas, was part of a family who ran The City Drug Store for a while in the Great Depression. She wrote in March about what it was like to be a kid then.

Here is what Ruth wrote about the newspaper ad:

No doubt in the back of your mind you knew that reading the Drug Store ad in the Pawnee Rock News back in 1937 would stir up a bunch of memories in this 80 year old's "recall button." It was good to know that Max Factor has been able to keep up with the times, also Milk of Magnesia. It looked like the drug store carried quite a variety of items.

The way I have it figured I would have been about 9 years old and my parents, Bill and Veda Maupin, would have been operating the drug store for about 6 years when this ad was put in the paper. I remember the newspaper office and printing press, it was located a couple of doors west of the south entrance of the drug store. A family by the name of Hixon ran it. I wonder how long it has been since Pawnee Rock has had a local newspaper, I would wager quite a few. [Leon's note: The ad appeared in the Herald's last edition, and that was the end of big-time newspapering in town.]

It's good to visit with you again and I just want to let you know that your "Too Long in the Wind" is a must see every morning and I appreciate being able to enjoy a short span of time reminiscing due to your dedicated efforts to bring "old" and "new" news of Pawnee Rock to those of us deeply interested.

Keep up the good work!

Ruth (Maupin) Betsworth-Breeding

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Reminder: Flea market is Saturday

[July 28]   The Lions Club plans a flea market on Saturday, August 1, to raise money for painting the depot. Janice Schmidt says the flea market's hours will be from 1 to 4 p.m. In addition, there will be homemade ice cream and cake.

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At the churches, April 1922

[July 27]   The Pawnee Rock Herald kept readers up to date with weekly schedules of the three churches in town. It's hard to imagine, though, that anyone could keep up with the Methodists.

The following paragraphs appeared on April 6, 1922.

Christian Church Notes
Services next Sunday as follows:
Bible School, 10:00 a.m.
Christian Endeavor, 7 p.m.
Prayer meeting each Thursday evening at 7:30

There will be an afternoon prayer meeting at the church Friday afternoon the 14th. Let all keep this in mind.

The Missionary Society of the Christian Church met with Mrs. D.R. Logan Tuesday afternoon. On account of the bad weather only a few were present, yet the meeting was very interesting. The subject "The Isles of the Sea" was freely discussed by those present.

Church of the New Jerusalem
H. K. Peters, Minister
Sunday school, 10 a.m.
Service, 11 a.m.
Subjec: The cleansing of the Temple, Matt. 21:12.
Text: Matt. 25:21. Well done, good and faithful servant.

Our religion is of no account unless it results in action. He serves God who serves his family, his community and his church. In general, who serves duty.

Methodist Church
Albert A. Hankins, Pastor

Sunday

Preaching -- 11:00 a.m. and 7:30 p.m.
Sunday School -- 10:00 a.m.
Junior League -- 3 p.m.
Epworth League -- 6:30 p.m.
Prayer Meeting -- Thursday -- 7:30 p.m.
W.F.M.S. -- Third Thursday each month.

Methodist Church Notes.

As compared to the past the Sunday school attendance is fine. But it is not up to what it ought to be yet. Let us all boost for a record this month.

The Junior League will meet hereafter on Thursday afternoon at 4:30 instead of on Sunday afternoon. This will aid in bringing about the "Church Day" program we are hoping to establish.

As is the custom of the community the hour for evening service beginning last Sunday was changed to 8:00 o'clock. The prayer-meeting however will be at 7:30 on Thursday nights followed by the choir practice at 8:30. All members of the choir and those who will help are requested to be sure to be on hand this Thursday evening in preparation for Easter service.

The pastor is preaching a series of sermons on the subject "Stewardship." Next Sunday morning will close the series when he will preach on the subject "The Stewardship of Property." Beginning next Sunday night we will observe "Passion Week" with services each evening at 8 o'clock and everybody is invited to worship with us.

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Phil Bowman writes

[July 24]   Phil Bowman, Pawnee Rock High Class of 1966, wrote this week from Salina.

"Thanks for maintaining the Pawnee Rock website. I'm sure it's a lot of work, but I'm also sure it provides a great service to many people.

"I, for one, check it every day and always enjoy a brief story about central Kansas and its people."

I wrote back, asking to be caught up.

"My parents were George and Isabel Bowman. We lived on a farm southwest of town. My Grandfather and Grandmother were Earl and Buena Bowman, who lived in Pawnee Rock. My Brother Joe still lives in town.

"After PRHS I went to Kansas Wesleyan in Salina, and settled here with my wife Linda, a Salina native. I work for School Specialty; currently as a sales representative."

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Sweeny, not Sweeney

[July 24]   Kathleen Smith wrote early today to correct something I had mentioned in February 2007:

Michael Sweeny of Pawnee Rock."I happened across one of your posts while trying to find any information I could about my great-great-grandfather Michael Sweeny. My great-grandmother was Anna B. (Sweeny) Crumpacker, Mr. Sweeny's oldest child. I did notice you mentioned that the newspaper made a mistake and left out the E in his last name. I wanted you to know that's not the case. Mr. Sweeny had no extra E in his last name in all the documents I can find (basically, KS and U.S. Federal censuses from 1880 to 1910)."

Ms. Smith is absolutely correct, of course. The Pawnee Rock Herald was wrong so consistently that it continued to mail its copies to the "Sweeney" family 15 years after it published the 1922 story in which it misspelled Michael Sweeny's name, and I fell for the apparent error as I wrote about a (correct) 1937 memorial story. Michael's gravestone, below, has the last word.

Michael Sweeny's gravestone in the Pawnee Rock Cemetery. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.Back to top


 

Small-town sounds

[July 24]   Cheryl Unruh, a Pawnee Rock native and now a blogger and Emporia Gazette columnist, has branched out into TV. On a Topeka station's broadcast, she describes the sounds of a small town. (See the segment)

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McGill obituaries

George and Virginia McGill's grave marker in the Pawnee Rock Cemetery.

[July 23]   Debbie Neece, whose touching story about Hilas McGill's gravestone appeared here earlier in the week, is working on a special cemetery project in her hometown in Oklahoma, Bartlesville.

"We are working to gather every obituary for every resident of the local cemetery. It will take us years but the end results will be outstanding. Pawnee Rock is not that large a cemetery and would be very easy to do," she writes.

Is anybody interested in doing that? It sounds like a great project and one that would have a lasting benefit for those who study the history of Pawnee Rock.

Debbie mentioned Tobias McGill, the father of George McGill, the senator from Dundee and Pawnee Rock -- and Kansas' last Democratic senator.

(Do any of you remember the senator's passing or his funeral?)

"Tobias came to Barton County in the late 1800s where he bought land and farmed for many years in the Dundee area. We don't have many photos of that time unless they are among the many that are unidentified. One thing I have discovered over the years is that obituaries are worth gold. I have searched high and low and have gathered many of them. I have a tons of research on George McGill, however there are no family photos in my collection. If you are interested in obits, I can fix you up."

And fix us up she did. Debbie sent the following obituaries:

Senator George McGill, 1963

Senator George McGill's obituary, Wichita Eagle, Thursday May 16, 1963.

Senator McGill's Death Noted

The Eagle's Washington Bureau

WASHINGTON Kansas Senators Frank Carlson and James B. Pearson Wednesday joined in paying homage to former Sen. George McGill who died in Wichita Tuesday. Sen. Carlson informed the Senate of McGill's death and called him "an able representative of Kansas when the state and nation were in a great agricultural depression."

Senator George McGill of Kansas and Pawnee Rock.

"Not only did Sen. McGill initiate and sponsor, but he secured approval of much legislation in the interest of agriculture," Sen. Carlson added. "He was a personal friend and I enjoyed serving with him in Congress."

Sen. Pearson said, "Sen. McGill has left a distinguished mark in the history of our state and his passing will leave a gap in the ranks of great statesmen in this nation."

Earlier, Rep. Garner E. Shriver of Wichita notified the House of the former Kansas Democrat's death, stating: "The people of the great state of Kansas held him in great respect and confidence."

"George McGill will be missed by his friends of both political faiths and by his fellow members of the Kansas Bar," Shriver concluded.

Sen. McGill's death was displayed prominently Wednesday in all three Washington papers. He was well known in the capital as a senator for nine years and a member of the U.S. Tariff Commission for 10 years.

Sen. McGill was the second Democrat to be elected U.S. Senator from Kansas in this century, the other being Sen. William H. Thompson, who defeated Charles Curtis in 1912. Curtis subsequently returned to the Senate and was vice president under Herbert Hoover.

Pallbearers Chosen For McGill Service

Pallbearers at rites for former U.S. Sen. George McGill, 84, who died Tuesday, will be Ralph Gilchrist, Newell A. George, Keith Sanborn, Homer Davis, Carl McClung, Frank Theis, Ike H. Stearns, Carnot Brennan, Allan Phares, Jack Glaves, Charley Duncan, John Collier, Rufus Deering, Ed Dunn and Howard Scott. Funeral services will be at 2 p.m. Thursday at DeVorss-Gard Mortuary. The Rev. Dr. Robert Gill, pastor of Riverside Christian Church, will officiate. Masonic graveside services will be at noon Friday at Pawnee Rock, Kan. Cemetery.

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Wichita Eagle, Wednesday May 15, 1963

George McGill Rites Arranged

Burial Will Be At Pawnee Rock

Funeral services for former U.S. Sen. George McGill, 84, of 1455 Woodrow Court, attorney since 1904, will be at 2 p. m. Thursday at DeVorss-Gard Mortuary. The Rev. Dr. Robert Gill, pastor of Riverside Christian Church, will officiate. Masonic graveside services will be at noon Friday at Pawnee Rock (Kan.) Cemetery.

Mr. McGill, who was born Feb. 12, 1879, on a farm in Lucas County, Iowa, died Tuesday at St. Francis Hospital. He had been suffering from a heart ailment and was admitted to the hospital Monday evening.

Sod House Home

Mr. McGill's childhood was spent in a sod house in Wichita County, where his father homesteaded. The family also lived in Barton County on two occasions. His early debating talents led him to dream of politics. He graduated from Iowa University Law School and passed the bar examination in 1902. When Mr. McGill won his first Senate seat in 1930, his obscure political background led some observers to term the election a "political accident."

Two years later, he defeated Ben S. Paulen, twice governor of Kansas, for a Senate seat and thus became the only Democratic senator or governor until recent Kansas history, to be re-elected in a statewide election. Sen. McGill returned to private practice, in 1939 after his defeat at the polls by Clyde Reed, Kansas governor. Named by President President Franklin D. Roosevelt appointed Mr. McGill in 1944 to an unexpired term on the Federal Tariff Commission and he was reappointed to a six-year term under President Harry Truman in 1948.

His wife, the former Virginia Parker, died Aug. 4, 1962. Survivors include a daughter, Mrs. Catherine Sheehan, Alexandria, VA, and a son, George McGill Jr., Hutchinson, KS.

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Virginia McGill, 1962

Obituary for Mrs. Virginia McGill as posted in the Wichita Eagle, August 5, 1962

Death Comes to Mrs. McGill

Mrs. Virginia McGill, 70, of 1455 Woodrow Court, wife of former U.S. Senator George McGill, died shortly after 9 p.m. Saturday at St. Francis Hospital. She had been hospitalized since July 30 and had been in ill health several years. Mrs. McGill was born April 14, 1892, in Hamilton, MO. The former Mrs. Virginia Altman Parker of Oklahoma City, she was married to Senator McGill in Wichita Nov. 5, 1931. Mrs. McGill was an accomplished pianist and painted landscapes as a hobby. Survivors include her husband; a son, Donald Carruth, who is with the Department of Interior in Washington, D.C.; and a brother, Russel Altman, of Colorado Springs, CO. Funeral arrangements will be announced by DeVorss-Gard Mortuary.

• • • 

Obituary for Mrs. Virginia McGill as posted in the Wichita Eagle, Sunday, August 6, 1962

Mrs. McGill Rites Set for Wednesday

Funeral services for Mrs. Virginia McGill, 1455 Woodrow Court, wife of former U.S. Senator George McGill will be held at 10 a.m. Wednesday at DeVorss-Gard Mortuary. Graveside services will be at 3 p.m. Wednesday at Pawnee Rock Cemetery where burial will be made. The Rev. N. Robert Gill, pastor of Riverside Christian Church will officiate at the services. Mrs. McGill died late Saturday night at St. Francis Hospital after a prolonged illness.

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Where there's smoke

Forest fire sound of Fairbanks, Alaska, on June 21, 2009. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

A forest fire's seething plume rises to the heavens south of the Fairbanks airport.

[July 22]   It was above 80 degrees today where I live, above the 64th parallel, so I can imagine that it was like an oven or a sauna wherever you are. It's fire season; I think we can all agree on that.

South of my town, a forest fire raised what looked like a popcorn-topped thunderhead into the evening sky; if it gets dark enough tonight we might be able to see static discharges -- lightning.

Such events bring back fond memories of chasing columns of smoke across Barton and Pawnee counties in my high school days. Grass fires, stubble fires, and the king of fires -- an oil well's sump pit -- still draw bored Kansans like nothing else short of a tornado. I went after them all, and sometimes I was rewarded with a view of orange flames leaping from the dust.

Of course, in some cases my entertainment was at someone's expense, especially if a farmer hadn't intended to lose that wheatfield before harvest. Once in a great while, a farm house was under the smoke, and that was never good.

On the whole, our Kansas fires served another purpose besides letting us watch matter change from a solid to a gas. When I took the time to stand outside my car and think about the fire, the tall, tall column illustrated how high the sky was. When I followed the smoke back down, I understood what a speck I was on the open plain.

I cannot tell you why I found comfort in that.

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Hilas McGill gets his gravestone

Debbie Neece sent this photo of Hilas McGill, Mary Catherine (Henry) and Walter Ray McGill, who was Debbie's grandfather.

Debbie Neece sent this photo of Hilas McGill, Mary Catherine (Henry) and Walter Ray McGill, who was Debbie's grandfather.

[July 21]   An interesting message slipped into my mailbox late last week from Debbie McGill Neece of Bartlesville, Oklahoma. She was writing about Hilas McGill, the brother of our favorite senator, George McGill, who rests in the Pawnee Rock Cemetery.

Here's what Debbie, a photo archivist at the Bartlesville Area History Museum, wrote:

I stumbled upon your website this evening while researching Tobias McGill, which then led me to George McGill. I have to take a few minutes to thank you from the bottom of my heart for the wonderful story about George. (More about Tobias (of Dundee), and more about his son George)

I have spent many years researching both side of my family history which has taken me through Iowa, Kansas and Nebraska.

Hilas McGill's gravestone. Photo copyright 2009 by Debbie Neece.One extremely memorable visit came on a vacation to Great Bend and Pawnee Rock (doing research and visiting old home sites). I knew the McGills who resided in the Pawnee Rock Cemetery and set out to check each off my list. As I made my way to Hilas Newton McGill, there was no stone marker.

I went to town and called the sexton who told me that he had witched the cemetery and there was a male man buried beside my grandmother but there had never been a stone for Hilas. Heartbroken I made my way back home to Oklahoma with a plan to allow Hilas to have his first Memorial Day.

If you visit the gentleman now, you will see a simple stone that means more to me than most of my possessions. Shortly after the stone was placed, my husband and I made the trip to the Pawnee Rock Cemetery with a load of Memorial Day flowers. No, it was not Memorial Day on the calendar . . . but Hilas Newton McGill was finally given his due.

I hope this note finds you well and feeling appreciated.

I asked Debbie about why Hilas had gotten the short end of the stick. She replied:

My curiosity is that the family spent so much money on all of the other stones but left Hilas out. I do not understand this. I have asked my dad and he just responds "I was a kid, I don't remember that stuff." The family had some money . . . not rich but they did well for themselves so this will always be something that I do not understand. I can not remember the exact year that I presented Hilas with his stone but it was within the last 5 years.

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Lucky numbers

Leon's odometer at 55555 miles. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

[July 20]   I like to mess with numbers. Numbers express truth (the people who use them sometimes lie). Odometer numbers are among my favorites, because they record my travels and once they're gone I can't get them back.

So I celebrate events like this weekend's arrival of mile 55555 on my little Honda. For me, that was good enough. I sent this photo and note to my sons, Nik and Sam, saying that 55555 had come along while one of their favorite songs, "Wanted Dead or Alive" by Bon Jovi, played on the radio -- and I was at Mile 5 of a certain road back in the hills.

  1. All the numerals are 5s.
  2. It happened at Mile 5.
  3. And then my sons got hold of the numbers and came up with additional facts:

  4. There are five 5s.
  5. "Wanted Dead or Alive" is track 5 on its album.
  6. My car is 5 years old.

Back in my tender years, our family was motoring between Larned and Pawnee Rock one day when I noticed that the stripes passed my window to the beat of a Beatles song. I didn't mention it to my folks -- they might have laughed, and even worse, Dad might have gone faster or slower and messed up the rhythm.

Part of my goal of giving my sons every advantage in life is to encourage them to think in terms of numbers and music. They might eventually get rich off how they learn to think; at the least, they are more likely to sense patterns in life.

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Marking time in history

Kansas state historical marker at Pawnee Rock. Photo copyright 2006 by Leon Unruh.

[July 17]   One of my favorite places in Pawnee Rock is the historical marker's rest stop on the southwest corner of town. With its sparse row of trees, it's shady in the summer and ignored by almost everyone who drives by. I used to sit there and watch the trucks and cars (and trains) roll past.

There's no picnic table and no restroom, and no privacy for those who aren't bothered by the lack of a restroom, so people who stop there must need to stretch their legs or are really interested in the marker.

I began to wonder about other markers in the area. How many have I seen, and how many have I driven blindly by?

Here's what I found on a page of the Kansas Historical Society. (Go here to read more markers and see a map of where they are.)

Aside from Pawnee Rock, there are five markers in Barton, Pawnee, and Rush counties. Alas, nothing of historical significance is recorded for Stafford County. The following paragraphs are from historical society and, I assume, appear on the historical markers.

Barton County

Fort Zarah

(In a roadside turnout a mile east of Great Bend on the bank of Walnut Creek)

In 1865 the Federal government surveyed the Santa Fe Trail, great trade route from western Missouri to Santa Fe. Treaties with Kansas and Osage Indians safeguarded the eastern end of the road but Plains Tribes continued to make raids. Fort Zarah, at this point, was one of a chain of forts built on the Santa Fe Trail to protect wagon trains and guard settlers.

Pawnee County

Birthplace of Farm Credit

(Along U.S. 56 southwest of Larned)

This 280 acres was collateral for the nation's first Federal Land Bank loan made on April 10, 1917 to farmer-stockman A. L. Stockwell. In those days, farmers and ranhers found credit hard to come by. If available, it was often very expensive . . . as much as 10 percent per month.

Camp Criley 1872

(In the city park in Garfield)

Camp Criley was established in 1872 as a supply station for workmen building the Santa Fe Railroad, named changed to Garfield in 1873 by pioneers settling here.

Discover of Pluto

(On the western edge of Burdett)

Burdett is the boyhood home of Dr. Clyde Tombaugh, discoverer of the planet Pluto. Born in Illinois in 1906, he grew up on a farm northwest of here and was graduated from Burdett High School in 1925.

Rush County

Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Trail

(In the rest area in Alexander, on K-96)

Established in 1867, the Fort Hays-Fort Dodge Trail, which passed near this spot, was first used by the military and some civilian traffic in 1868. The following year Alexander Harvey, a former member of the Sixth Cavalry, built a trading post on the trail on the north bank of Walnut Creek near here, and provided a place to ford the creek.

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Decorate a calendar

Pawnee Rock State Park pavilion and monument. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

[July 16]   The League of Kansas Municipalities is looking for photos of Pawnee Rock . . . and you can help.

A fellow named Jonathan Fisk wrote in search of high-resolution photos of our hometown:

"I am with the League of Kansas Municipalities and we are collecting pictures of each city in Kansas for a calendar. . . . Thus far, cities have sent in pictures of city halls, churches, festivals/celebrations, landmarks, water towers, elevators, etc."

Send your photos to photos@lkm.org.

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Help the depot

[July 15]   The Lions Club plans a flea market on Saturday, August 1, to raise money for painting the depot.

Janice Schmidt writes that the flea market's hours will be from 1 to 4 p.m. In addition, there will be homemade ice cream and cake.

"Come on down and look the 'fleas' over and take some home," she adds, and donations of goods will be accepted.

Or, I think, you could donate cash.

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J.P. Dirks and his pretty farm

Farm and home of J.P. Dirks

[July 14]   Jacob P. Dirks, who was born in a boxcar in Pawnee Rock and who married 11 days after turning 23 years old, was a hard-working son of the soil. He and his family lived five miles north of Pawnee Rock and two west, right across the line from Pawnee County.

Dirks' story was written up in the "Biographical History of Barton County, Kansas," which was published in 1912.

Jacob P. Dirks

Fifteen and a half miles southwest of Great Bend and six and a half miles northwest of Pawnee Rock, in Pawnee Rock township, one of the finest wheat producing sections in the world, is one of the pretty farms in a pretty country. It is the property of Jacob P. Dlrks, the eldest son of Susan and Peter H. Dirks.

Born February 12, 1875, and educated in the public schools, he early took to farming for himself. He was married on February 23, 1898, to Miss Lizzie C. Schultz of Clarence township. They are the parents of three children: Maggie, twelve years of age, Elmer Jacob, ten years and Pearl Lena, five years of age.

They bought the land they live on, 160 acres, and on it have a one and a half story frame residence with eight rooms and basement. A good barn, granaries, chicken houses, etc., are found on the place and it is one of the well improved farms of the neighborhood. The family is a popular one and merits its standing in the community. He rents and farms two hundred acres of land.

Mr. Dirk's birth will long be remembered by those who came to this country with his parents because it is said they occupied a box car on a siding in Pawnee Rock at the time of his birth, and that he first saw the light in such surroundings. From that fact it was then argued that he would be a great traveler and never settle down to a peaceful life, but he has and is one of the most contented in his community and rarely rides in anything faster than an automobile.

Grave of Jacob Dirks and Elizabeth Dirks in the Pawnee Rock Cemetery. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

Jacob Dirks is buried on the western edge of the Pawnee Rock Cemetery. His grave and that of Elizabeth are where the fence has a notch. He lived from 1874 to 1952, and she lived from 1880 to 1938. She was 17 or 18 when they married; he was 23.

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Rain to the north

The storm at 12:26 a.m., 12:58 a.m., and 1:08 a.m. today.

[July 13]   An intense package of storms danced to the north of Pawnee Rock early today, no doubt keeping a lot of people up late as lightning and thunder shook the darkness.

Some township farms may have gotten a little rain for their corn, milo, and soybeans, and neighbors up in Clarence Township were directly under the storm.

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Tourists visit Pawnee Rock

[July 10]   While my attention was elsewhere on Father's Day, my favorite writer at the Hutch News, Amy Bickel, produced a story about tourists on the Santa Fe Trail and notably on Pawnee Rock.

The best quote in the story comes from a former history professor:

"The Santa Fe Trail, it is sort of like a disease," said Leo Oliva, a former Fort Hays State history professor and a trail expert. "Once they've been to a few spots, people want to spend more time on the trail."

On a sadder note, the story mentions Ralph's Ruts near Chase. Ralph Hathaway, for whom trail cuts are named because he protected them, died less than two weeks after he was mentioned in the Hutch story. See his obituary in the Great Bend Tribune; it ran on July 2.

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Heat and thunder

Temperature sign at the University of Alaska Fairbanks, July 8, 2009. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.[July 9]   We who have lived on the plains know that afternoon heat can be replaced in an hour with thunder and hail. It's the price and pleasure of living in the middle of the continent.

I'm glad to report that central Kansas isn't the only place where the sky turns a funny color late in the day. Sometimes it happens far from where you might expect, like a hundred miles south of the Arctic Circle. It was 93 degrees and humid when I got off work at 5 p.m. yesterday in Fairbanks. I went home to my cabin, ate supper, and fell into a nap on the couch. Soon the sweet rumble of thunder woke me.

Apparently this kind of thing is common in the interior of the state, hundreds of miles from the coast, from which I moved. It made me think fondly of summer afternoons in Pawnee Rock, where oven-hot days often end abruptly with long bolts of lightning and rolling thunder.

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The holiday table

From left: Merle Unruh, Lena Unruh, Julietha Fox, Cheryl Unruh, Mary Fox, Herman Fox, Cynthia Fox, Anita Unruh, Elgie Unruh, Laramie Unruh Sr., and Laramie Unruh. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

From left: Merle Unruh, Lena Unruh, Julietha Fox, Cheryl Unruh, Mary Fox, Herman Fox, Cynthia Fox, Anita Unruh, Elgie Unruh, Laramie Unruh Sr., and Laramie Unruh.

[July 8]   Taken by me when I was about 12 years old, the photograph is blurry and unevenly lit by a flashbulb that sat squarely atop an Instamatic camera.

It's not a pretty photo and probably one that a sensible person would have thrown away after getting it back from the yellow Meller's kiosk in a West 10th Street parking lot. I, however, saved every photo and every negative.

I'm glad I did. The photo, a square shot made on 126 film, captures the flavor of life at the holiday table in my cousin Laramie's house northeast of Pawnee Rock. Look at the people -- every one of them is engaged with someone else.

The family didn't always get along; whose does? But this is the way I'd like to remember them all. Curious, playful, attentive, joyful. And maybe this is how they remember me -- the one rarely in the picture.

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Donald Boman dies

[July 7]   Donald Boman, 68, of Pawnee Rock and Pawnee County died July 3 in Hutchinson. He was married to Corine, and their sons, Mark and Gale, both live in Pawnee Rock. He is also survived by two daughters, Polly Baier of Larned and Andrea Bright of Rozel. He was an oil field worker and a farmer, and he fished.

Mr. Boman's funeral will be Wednesday morning at Pleasant Ridge Cemetery of Radium. (Full obituary)

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Best of Pawnee Rock

[July 7]   A business scam that vastly overestimates the power of PawneeRock.org sent this fake press release last night in an effort to get us to buy a plaque. I've included (but split apart) the URL sent by the company, which apparently wants us to confuse it with the U.S. Chamber of Commerce, but visit the link at your own risk:

I am pleased to announce that Pawnee Rock City Hall has been selected for the 2009 Best of Pawnee Rock Award in the Local Business category by the US Commerce Association.

In recognition of your achievement, a 2009 Best of Pawnee Rock Award has been designed for display at your place of business. You may arrange to have your award sent directly to Pawnee Rock City Hall by following the simple steps on the 2009 Best of Pawnee Rock Award order form. Simply copy and paste this link into your browser to receive your award: https:// www.us-ca.org/ AQF-MMT-97

Each year, the US Commerce Association (USCA) identifies companies that we believe have achieved exceptional marketing success in their local community and business category. These are local companies that enhance the positive image of small business through service to their customers and community.

Also, a copy of the press release publicizing the selection of Pawnee Rock City Hall has been posted on our website. The USCA hereby grants Pawnee Rock City Hall a non-exclusive, royalty-free license to use, reproduce, distribute, and display this press release in any media formats and through any media channels.

An Award Code has been assigned to your company that can be used on our website for quick access to your award information and press release.

Your Award Code is: QF-MMT-97

Sincerely,
Ashley Carter
Selection Committee Chair
US Commerce Association

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July 4 fire in Pawnee Rock

[July 7]   The Great Bend Tribune reports: Pawnee Rock Fire Department was called to the 700 block of North Centre Street around 9:30 p.m. Saturday to put out a small fire. That's the block north of Bismark Avenue.

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The fun of destruction

Jim Dye photographed this electronic device along the Arkansas River. Photo copyright 2009 by Jim Dye.

[July 6]   With the passing of another Fourth of July, ghosts of a thousand animals floated through the yards and backlots of Pawnee Rock. Far too many boys have used firecrackers to test the physical strength of toad, birds, and bugs, and almost always the animals lost. Badly.

There's just something about having the power to destroy that makes kids -- and people who think on the level of kids -- yearn to use that power.

Sometimes, however, that power can be put to harmless amusement.

Jim Dye was exercising his dogs along the Arkansas River last fall when he found what looks like a movie projector hanging from a tree. A firearm was the instrument of destruction, but the projector must have been dead before it was taken for a ride to the river.

Unlike birds and toads, machines have no souls and so one would not expect to face this machine at Saint Peter's gate. For many of us, thank goodness, we also have nothing to fear from the cans, pipes, and even mailboxes that long ago echoed with Black Cats.

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Hot-wire memories

Sparkler on the Fourth of July. Photo copyright 2009 by Leon Unruh.

One of our sparklers early on the Fourth of July.

[July 4]   It was a great day leading into Independence Day. We went on family walks in the neighborhood, drove into the city to straighten my glasses and buy stuff, and endured a nine-mile (150-lap) bike race featuring the boys and me on the asphalt base of an outdoor hockey rink. And then, as the Third turned into the Fourth, we stood in the street and watched fireworks shot off in the city park down the hill, and finally we burned sparklers in the driveway.

As I haven't put a lot of study into fireworks, I don't know the mechanics of how sparklers send out fiery bits that explode on their own, but that's what makes sparklers special. They snap and spit and are the longest-lasting inexpensive treat you can find for this holiday.

These were the wire sparklers that you and I remember from our childhood -- not those cheesy bamboo sparklers the unwary can now buy at any fireworks stand. We parents remember our own parents' admonitions about how hot the wires get, and we proudly pass the warning on to our own offspring. And so the Fourth of July tradition continues, from our Pawnee Rock front yards to wherever we are now.

And, wherever you are now, I wish you all a sparkling Fourth of July.

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Pawnee Rock's population shrinks

[July 3]   New population figures for Kansas' towns, townships, and counties have been released by the state Division of the Budget. The numbers show that Pawnee Rock city and township have lost people in the past year and since 2000.

Great Bend was the only city in the county to gain population. All of the townships' populations shrank.

Here's a quick look at the figures:

Pawnee Rock city had 329 people in 2008. That is down 3 from the previous year and down 27 from 2000 -- a drop of 8 percent.

Pawnee Rock Township (outside of the city of Pawnee Rock) had 175 people. That is down 1 from the previous year and down 13 from 2000 -- a drop of 7 percent.

Clarence Township (north of Pawnee Rock Township) had 117 people last year and didn't lose anyone since the previous year. It has lost 8 since 2000 -- a drop of 6 percent.

Liberty Township (Dundee) had 300 people last year, down 2 from the previous year and down 21 from 2000 -- a loss of 7 percent.

Great Bend's population was 15,564 last year, a gain of 7 over the previous year and a gain of 219 since 2000 -- a gain of 1 percent.

Barton County's 2008 population was 27,703 last year, a loss of 65 from the previous year and a drop of 502 since 2000 -- a loss of 13 percent.

Larned's 2008 population was 3,599. That is down 76 from the previous year and a drop of 637 from 2000 -- a loss of 17 percent.

Pawnee County as a whole had 6,291 people last year, down 124 from the previous year and down 942 from 2000 -- a loss of 15 percent.

Stafford County had 4,326 people last year, down 61 from the previous year and down 463 from 2000 -- a loss of 10 percent.

See the full pdf report for all the state's localities.

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Foster family's last harvest

[July 2]   Rick Plumlee, a longtime writer for the Wichita Eagle, visited Pawnee Rock this week to be there when the Foster family harvested the wheat crop. It was Maxine's last harvest on the land, and she insisted on going into the field.

Here is a bit of Rick's story. (A tip of the hat to reporter Stan Finger, who tipped me off that a story was coming.)

Sun sets on family farm

BY RICK PLUMLEE
The Wichita Eagle

PAWNEE ROCK -- Mosquitoes and a hot summer day didn't keep Maxine Foster from going out to the fields this week to check on the wheat harvest at her farm in central Kansas.

"I just wanted to see what was going on," she said. "I like to see them doing the cut."

At 90 years old, she is watching the last wheat harvest on land that has been part of her family for more than 100 years.

Maxine has always spent far more time doing than watching during harvest. Driving combines and grain trucks. Chasing down parts. Preparing meals seemingly nonstop to feed those in the fields.

"I've just about done it all," she said.

In 1950 -- 60 harvests ago -- she and her husband, Doyle, cut their first wheat together. Later, their only son, Bob, became a vital part of the harvest.

But Doyle is gone now after working the farm until he died at 91 in February 2007. And then last September -- just after he prepared the land for planting -- Bob died of a heart attack at 61. . . .

You can find the rest of the story, and Travis Heying's photos, here.

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Indian burial ground

Unbroken ground northeast of Pawnee Rock. Photo made June 30, 2009, by Dewey Ball. Photo copyright 2009 by Dewey Ball.

Dewey Smith photographed the hillside east of the Mennonite Church road.

[July 1]   Dewey Ball -- "I've been here now 22 years and my father was here 10 years before that," he wrote -- has found a subject that no one has mentioned on PawneeRock.org. I hate to admit it, but the subject was a surprise to me.

Here's what Dewey wrote, and yesterday he sent some photos of a site he estimates at 5 acres:

You don't mention the Indian Burial Grounds east of the Rock just off the Mennonite blacktop road. It is owned by the late Richard Brining of Great Bend. It is about 200 ft east of the black top near the City's Well House. You can tell the land as it is fenced, has never been turned by tractors and is quite a site to see. Once you look at it you can tell it is out of place for the rest of this area.

I've never set foot on the burial site, just to be respectful. Richard bought it to preserve. I told the P.R. Historical ladies about it 20 years ago and they weren't even aware of it.

Also, Merita Rice, the assistant postmaster, tells the story how as a small girl she would swing from a rope hung in a tree on the south side of the Rock and swing into the cave. She tells how the Elders felt it was dangerous and had many truck loads of dirt brought in to fill it.

Maybe you knew these things, but thought I'd let you know. Best of luck, Dewey

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Copyright 2009 Leon Unruh

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